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Posts tagged kamakura

Kamakura Daibutsu (Giant Buddha) hike

Last week I made my fourth excursion to Kamakura. I have taken a completely different route each time and still feel like I have much to explore and discover in this ancient capital of Japan.

We followed Yamaonna’s Kamakura Daibutsu Hiking Course 大仏ハイキングコース during the morning. I won’t repeat everything she said. Click the link for details.

We skipped Engakuji as I was just there at the end of November. Tokeiji (東慶寺), our first stop, was incredible. I’ll have more pictures from Tokeiji in future entries. The top picture in today’s entry is from there.

The trail itself was very cool and nearly empty. The second picture is of an “ordinary” house, and its fence, on the first part of the trail.

There are a few things I would add or change to Yamaonna’s write up of the Giant Buddha Hiking Course.

One is Jochiji’s admission fee, which has increase by 50 yen in the past few months to 200 yen. Strangely, the 200 yen sign looked very old. Maybe they change the price based on the season?

One item about the Daibutsu Hiking Course I would add is that there are views on this hike when you are near the top. The views to the right are of Mt. Fuji and those to the left are of the bay and the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, the morning was overcast and a bit hazy so we couldn’t see Mt. Fuji and could barely see the ocean when we sat down on the above, empty bench next to these four Japanese ladies.

If you aren’t tired after your walk and after visiting the Daibutsu, make sure to visit Hasedera if you haven’t before or if you aren’t planning on doing so on a future trip. From there you can jump on the train and go to Enoshima or you can walk the beach back most of the way to the Kamakura station, saving 250 yen and seeing much more than you can see from the train.

Also, a cheaper way to get to Kamakura is from Shibuya through Yokohama. Instead of the 780 or 890 yen quoted on Yamaonna’s blog, it is only 550 yen (although it takes a bit longer).

One final note, this hike can be very muddy if it has rained recently. It hadn’t rained in almost 48 hours but it was still muddy for us in places. I wouldn’t recommend this hike if it has rained in the past 24 hours.

Kamakura’s Engakuji (円覚寺)

Engakuji is an amazing place regardless of the season. The Hojo (方丈), above, looks especially good in the spring or fall. Today’s photos were taken during the last week of November. It doesn’t matter whether you look straight at it,

or look down,

or look up, the view is good every which way.

Three Jizo

jizo at Hasedera 長谷寺 kamakura japan

Some jizo (地蔵) hanging out in a garden at Hasedera (長谷寺) in Kamakura…

Thanksgiving in Kamakura

engakuji fall foliage autumn colors

The weather was good and the fall colors (紅葉) were supposed to be great, so I jumped on the train to Kamakura (鎌倉) for Thanksgiving. This was my first time on the train between 8 and 9 a.m., and it was not pleasant. We were pushed in like sardines. I could breath since I’m taller than 99% of the Japanese by a good margin, but I can’t imagine being a foot or two shorter in that condition. My feet got locked in, and I couldn’t move them. I had three layers of clothes on and was sweating like crazy. The lady next to me no longer had her feet on the floor after the train shifted a few times. She was grabbing my arm to keep from falling. Of course, none of us could fall, but leaning heavily on those around you as you move through Tokyo at rapid speeds on the train is not fun.

I was able to sit on the final train (of three), from Yokohama to Kamakura, but it, too, was fairly crowded for a non-holiday weekday in Japan. Everyone without a job was going to see the autumn foliage.

This was my third time in Kamakura. Each time has been very different. At the last second, without a plan in mind, I got off at Kitakamakura instead of the Kamakura station. I visited only three temples and shrines (Engakuji 円覚寺, Kenchoji 建長寺, and Tsurugaoka Hachiman Shrine 鶴岡八幡宮), but those three still took up a whole day.

The above photo is of the Engakuji Sanmon taken under a Japanese Maple, one of the first of countless seen on this Thanksgiving day.

kamakura japan kenchoji 建長寺 tengu

The above photo was taken from where I had my Thanksgiving feast (of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, an apple, and a PowerBar). The statue in the picture is of Tengu and I think the place was called Hansobo in the Kenchoji complex. I will tell you more about it in a future entry. On a clear day you can see the ocean from here. The sun was too bright and there was a bit of haze on the horizon so I didn’t see the ocean on Thanksgiving.

Kamakura – Part 2

“Kamakura.


A long, straggling country village, between low wooded hills, with a canal passing through it. Old Japanese cottages, dingy, neutral-tinted, with roofs of thatch, very steeply sloping, above their wooden walls and paper shoji. Green patches on all the roof-slopes, some sort of grass; and on the very summits, on the ridges, luxurious growths of yane-shobu, the roof-plant, bearing pretty purple flowers. In the lukewarm air a mingling of Japanese odors, smells of sake, smells of seaweed soup, smells of daikon, the strong native radish; and dominating all, a sweet, thick, heavy scent of incense, — incense from the shrines of gods.


Akira has hired two jinrikisha for our pilgrimage; a speckless azure sky arches the world; and the land lies glorified in a joy of sunshine.”


(Lafcadio Hearn, 1894, Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan)

kamakura jinrikisha

Even though it has been almost a year since I read Hearn’s observations on Japan, and I only read his book once, passages flooded back into my memory as I wandered around Kamakura. I was reminded of the “jinrikisha” Hearn mentioned in the above quote when I saw this one parked outside this more traditional Japanese home. While Hearn was pulled around Kamakura and over to Enoshima via a jinrikisha in an age before automobiles, the Hybrid Prius in the above photo provides quite a contrast in transportation.

Kamakura’s one big downside (I suppose there are two–the other being the number of tourists. Go on a weekday that isn’t a holiday, like I did, and you can avoid most of the tourists.) is that the government should have passed some housing regulations twenty years ago (better yet 50 years ago). All new or reconstructed buildings should be required to be built in a more historical style. On some streets you can’t tell whether you are in Kamakura, Monterey (California), or Park City (Utah). There are boutiques and other souvenir shops catering to the tourists that do nothing to add to the charm of the city. The new buildings aren’t even remotely Japanese in nature and frequently have more writing and signage in English than Japanese. It’s a shame really.

Should you ever visit Kamakura enter within the temple and shrine boundaries as quickly as possible to avoid all of the nonsense that has sprung up around them.





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