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There is something unzenlike in a place like this when it is crowded with tourists, especially talking tourists. That said, I had always been underwhelmed by photos of Ryoanji, but I found actually being there to be quite amazing. Maybe it was just because it was humid, a million degrees, and one can view the rock garden from the shade. In any event, photos don’t do it justice, but try to get there when you can be alone (like I was able to at Ninnaji) if you can for best results.

Kushida-jinja (櫛田神社)
June, July, and August in South Korea and Japan feature intense humidity. The skies are usually white, not with fluffy, moving, picturesque clouds like you see in Copenhagen this time of year but with hazy clouds that seldom seem to move or dissipate. Such were the conditions when my plane departed from Gwangju. Soon, I realized, the clouds were far more interesting on the other side where they were quite lovely, especially next to the blues that I had so rarely seen in the prior months.