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Christiania (part 1 of 2)

Through Copenhagen Business School we have gone on several tours and excursions including a Jazz Festival night, a guided tour of the Danish Design Center, the Oslo trip, and our Copenhagen Canal Tour. We were also taken on a guided tour of Christiania, a sort of hippie communal area in Copenhagen on the man-made island of Christianshavn.

The tour was actually quite fascinating and certainly better than I expected. Our tour guide has been living in Christiania for over 30 years. He rolled his own cigarettes continually through the tour. Luckily, we were outside for most of the tour. His fly was down the whole time, and it almost seemed as if he would pass out a time or two. All of this added to the atmosphere–an atmosphere that was already other worldly.

The Church of Our Saviour copenhagen denmark

One of the main entrances to Christiania can be found near the “Church of Our Saviour” on Christianshavn. This church is recognizable for its golden spiral steeple. You can actually walk the 400 steps to the top for about $4 between about April and October.

graffiti in copenhagen denmark

One thing that is very surprising about Denmark is the amount of graffiti. There is far more here than in, say, California and probably even more than what I’ve seen in Mexico (including Mexico City). I’m almost getting used to it. The Danes seem very used to it and don’t seem to mind it a bit.

Some of it is the more “dirty graffiti” like above. I’ll show you a few pictures from Christiania of the more “art graffiti” style below and in tomorrow’s entry. Christiania has tons of graffiti. It covers nearly everything.

“Very Metal” is the name of the art exhibit that is going on in Christiania. The exhibit features sculptures made out of metal.

the laws of christiania in copenhagen denmark

Christiania has had bad experiences with biker gangs in the past. The above shows their laws. There doesn’t seem to be many laws beyond the above. Notice that it says “No hard drugs.” Marijuana can certainly be seen in Christiana (both being grown and being smoked). There was a crackdown a few years back, but we saw lots of it on our tour.

For instance, there was a guy standing buck naked (having just finished his bath) outside of the public bathhouse smoking a huge joint as we walked by. There is a street called “Pusher Street” in which photography is not allowed. Evidently, the dealers don’t want their pictures taken. All sorts of vendors are on this street selling drug paraphernalia. I’m guessing that you can buy weed from these vendors even though it is now illegal. I think it was legal until recently.

copenhagen denmark graffiti art

The above photograph is one, of many, of the nicer graffiti works that can be seen in Christiania (and Copenhagen in general).

house that is only a roof in copenhagen denmark

The Danish government seems to be slowly trying to regulate and take back Christiania. One of the newer laws is that nothing new can be built in Christiania. Roof work can be legally done. So the guy who built the above house tried to get around the law (and apparently has done so since it is still standing) by building a house that is nothing but a roof.

german banana house copenhagen denmark

German carpenters have been coming to Freetown Christiania for a long time and helping with the building and repairs of various things including a bridge or two. They have also created the above “Banana House.”

christiania copenhagen denmark

Although much of Christiania is not pretty to look at with all of the ugly graffiti, garbage, run down buildings, broken beer bottles in the road, etc. other portions are actually quite beautiful. There are many home-made houses tucked away in woodsy areas or along the water that people would probably pay top dollar to purchase. No real estate can be bought or sold here though.

Exodus

Sometimes there are good days, sometimes there are great days, and then sometimes there are days that seem like a dream. Yesterday was one of the latter.

Wednesday was my last day of teaching classes in Copenhagen. Finishing up is always a relief and puts me in a bit of a euphoric state. I don’t really know why as I enjoy teaching, but that is just what happens. Plus, my students were very good to me on the last day. They actually applauded at the end (which never happens in the states but did happen to me once in Mexico), and many of them came up to me afterwards with nice compliments, etc.

Payment for my services in Denmark also showed up in my bank account which was a pleasant surprise that I wasn’t expecting for a few more weeks. Everything was going my way.

Also I had some great and timely tunes come on the old ipod as I was cruising around town on my bike. I’m going to miss my bike in a few days when I have to take it back to my Iraqi friend. Biking in Copenhagen is lots of fun. The bike lanes are so well laid out and respected. The scenery is fabulous, and I can’t get enough of the adventure.

So when I finally got home I was in very high spirits. Of course the open bar at our faculty meeting probably didn’t hurt either.

I went online to find out if the local soccer team was playing at the stadium today. When I went to purchase tickets it showed a ticket calendar that included Exodus playing just a few blocks away. At the time I saw this the opening band would just be coming on stage. I threw on my Metaltown t-shirt and hopped on my bike.

I couldn’t believe my good luck. I’m not a huge Exodus fan, but I do own their first four CDs (which I haven’t listened to in ages). Exodus is from my neck of the woods. Although I saw most of the Bay Area Thrash bands live back in the late 1980s at San Francisco Bay Area clubs, Exodus was somehow never on the bill. Seeing them for the first time, in Copenhagen, put me in a dream-like state.

I rode my bike down Hans Christian Andersen Boulevard to see Exodus at The Rock right off of Stroget. I had to get off my bike and walk it for one block as I was on the wrong side of the street. Out of the corner of my eye I see a bill lying on the sidewalk. I picked it up to find that it is 200 Norwegian Kroners! So now my perfect day is ending with a highly anticipated and newly discovered concert that isn’t going to even cost me anything. In fact, I made money off this trip to see Exodus thanks to the kroners falling from heaven. At this point I was quite certain I was dreaming, but I didn’t pinch myself out of fear of waking up.

I parked my bike not 10 feet from the door of the venue. I walked inside to find a tiny club that is nearly empty. It was almost embarrassing to see so few people turn up to see a band like Exodus. But as an audience member, less is more so I enjoyed the lack of a crowd.

The crowd was most bizarre compared to U.S. crowds or even my Metaltown experience in Sweden. Nobody rushed the stage and few even came next to the stage. I was next to the stage the entire night and didn’t even come into contact with other people. I could even take a step or two back from the stage to take a picture and no one would grab my prime spot.

Exodus guitarist Gary Holt in Copenhagen on July 30 2008 at The Rock

My pictures aren’t that great for a couple of reasons. The first is I brought my daughter’s cheap camera instead of mine since I didn’t know if cameras were allowed. (It turns out that people brought in huge, professional cameras with flash, lenses, etc. and no one said a word.) The second reason is I was actually too close to take pictures even with the widest lens settings. Most of my pictures just show part of a guitar or someone’s head because I couldn’t get any wider.

If you want to take pictures at a concert I don’t think you will ever find a better venue than The Rock in Copenhagen. There is no security. None. Not one single guy. There is no barrier to the stage. I rested my hand on the stage for much of the show. There are no rules except no smoking. And best of all, the crowd doesn’t make it difficult to take pictures. You won’t get bumped. You can roam the entire front of the stage.

Lee Altus (guitar) and Jack Gibson (bass) of Exodus in Denmark 2008

Based on their calendar it looks like The Rock hosts my kind of bands. Recent acts included Death Angel, Artillery, Forbidden, Finntroll, Metal Church, and others.

Exodus Rob Dukes singer performs in pre-Wacken 2008

Rob Dukes, Exodus’s vocalist, noted the small crowd by saying something like, “What has become of Copenhagen? Nothing but tumbleweeds?” It’s funny to think that I saw Exodus with only about 100 people just a few days before they perform as one of the main acts at Wacken 2008 in front of more than 30,000 people.

Exodus Lee Altus guitar player denmark july 2008

Lee Altus (formerly of Heathen, a band I listen to more than Exodus) was literally less than a foot away from me most of the night. I actually had to get out of his way a few times in order to not be hit in the head with his guitar. I spoke with him a few times between songs. At the end of the show he gave me his guitar pick and the set list (or is it setlist?) you see below.

exodus set list 2008 pre-Wacken july 30

Copenhagen’s Botanical Gardens (part 2 of 2)

copenhagen denmark

copenhagen denmark lily pad pond

botanical gardens in denmark

copenhagen denmark

botanisk have in copenhagen denmark

Botanisk Have (part 1 of 2)

The Botanical Garden in Copenhagen is perhaps the favorite park in the city for nature lovers. We were only there for a half hour or so as they were closing. It’s the only park I know of in Copenhagen with security, only one entrance, and a definite opening and closing time.

denmark nature

Everywhere you looked was teaming with loads of plant varieties. On top of the plants there were numerous other living creatures in the park. We saw cranes, various duck species, turtles, birds, carp, and more.

ryan, al, and ellie in denmark garden

denmark buildings and ponds lily pads

The above may be an image of the museum. There is a museum and a greenhouse in the park but we didn’t enter either.

mating turtles in the botanical gardens

copenhagen denmark

The views from every turn in the paths were so great that I’m going to have to turn this into a two part entry with another five photos to show you tomorrow.

Amager Strand (Beach in Copenhagen)

Summer in Copenhagen is not what you may expect. We’ve been here more than a month now and I’ve yet to be really hot. We may have hit 80 degrees only once or twice and haven’t come close to hitting 90. Most days top out in the low 70s. I like it. But if you enjoy hot summer days on the beach or turning up an air conditioner, other places in the world may suit you better in July.

We have been to a few beaches. One of them is fairly new and goes by the name Amager Strand. (I think strand means “beach” in Danish.)

wind turbines between copenhagen and sweden

We rode our bikes to this beach even though it is seven metro stops away. Biking in Copenhagen is very easy. Bike lanes exist on nearly every street. The lanes are more substantial and respected by autos and pedestrians alike–far more so than in the U.S. There are three signal lights to look for in Denmark at each corner–one for cars, one for walkers, and one for bikers. It is confusing at first, but once I got used to it I find it to be a superior system.

The ground is flat in Denmark. There are no hills to speak of. The only time effort is required on a bike is when you have wind in your face or are going over a bridge. Basically, biking is never tiring (even for the kids) so seven metro stops worth of biking isn’t a problem. Plus, we’d miss much of the landscape and neighborhoods along the way if we rode the metro.

american kids at copenhagen beach

I only got in up to my knees, but my kids went for it. They saw lots of jelly fish in the water.

copenhagen beach view oresund

20 percent of energy used in Denmark comes from wind. The turbines in the Oresund are not an eyesore in my opinion.

kastrup fort beach

The Copenhagen clouds once again gathered on this day. They turned black and we made a run for it. Within minutes of our departure we got drenched on our bikes though. It was actually fun getting caught in the storm. Soon after the rain stopped we were dry again.

Norway’s fjords (part 4 of 4)

Once back on ship we still had about 40 minutes before actual departure. Since we were tired from all the walking some of us took a nap. I woke up just minutes before we were set to depart and went up top. It turns out that it had rained hard while I was asleep (and was still sprinkling a bit but for only a minute or two). This was the only rain of the day and I missed it. I’m glad the rainĀ fellĀ as the air was now crystal clear. Blue sky came out in places and the scenery went from excellent to outstanding.

oslofjord

We were to once again “sail” through Oslofjord south to Copenhagen.

oslofjord

I was awestruck by the views. I would love to visit and explore Norway’s fjords again. Further north, along the west coast, they are supposed to be even more fantastic.

sea near oslo norway

I didn’t want to leave or go back inside the ship, but dinner was scheduled for 45 minutes after departure so I had to drop a few decks and head for the interior. Luckily, we had window seats for dinner.

ellie checking out the oslofjord

My daughter wanted to try out my fancy sunglasses which have polarized lenses so they made looking at bright views much more comfortable on the eyes.

oslo-copenhagen ferry top deck

The next morning I got up and went to the top deck before 7 as that is when we were supposed to be passing Kronborg. We didn’t actually pass the castle until 7:40, but I did get some nice pictures of Gilleleje from a distance. No one was up there with me so I got to enjoy the peace and beauty of the morning alone.

Hamlets castle as seen from oresund

We passed the last couple hours through the Oresund Straight before our “ferry” pulled back into Copenhagen. What started out on some ominous notes turned into an enjoyable Norway trip that I’m very glad we took.