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Posts tagged kofu

Wrapping up the Takeda Shingen Festival

花火 甲府 信玄公祭り

It’s time to finally wrap up this series on the Takeda Shingen Festival I went to in Kofu last month. I’ll probably share some more photos from my day in Kofu later, but not in the near future.

I waited around with many other people for about an hour for the promised fireworks. They were to be fired off from the top of the castle site. Very cool I thought. However, the firework show lasted less than 1 minute. I kid you not. I’ve witnessed longer fireworks after home runs at baseball games.

japanese festival food kofu shingen matsuri

The wait could have been worse were it not for all of the typical Japanese festival food available. What would you like? Yakisoba? Ramen? Takoyaki? Kakigori? Okonomiyaki? Udon? Yakitori?

甲州軍団出陣 Off to battle

信玄公祭り

In English, one would probably call this a parade. In Japanese 軍団出陣 implies the soldiers are heading to the front lines of battle, and such is the nature of the Takeda Shingen Parade. The loudspeaker calls out which regiment is summoned to the front lines as dramatic music plays through the streets.

You may remember the guy on horseback in the top photo from this earlier picture.

samurai warriors

If it weren’t for the thousands of people in modern dress watching, and the retail outlets surrounding the scene, your imagination could take you back a few hundred years to the actual events. The Shingen Ko Matsuri (Takeda Shingen Festival or 信玄公祭り) is your next best thing to a time machine.

Kofu’s Shopping District

甲府市 銀座通り東 商店街

As previously mentioned, I wanted to see Kofu’s shopping district I was so familiar with in the late 1980s. I was hoping it hadn’t changed.

While the streets are still there, most of the buildings have been rebuilt in the past 22 years; several were even being renovated or reconstructed the day I was there. The businesses have nearly all changed.

The top picture is of Kofu’s covered shopping arcade (甲府銀座). I only recognized a couple of the shops. The roof has been replaced. I think it used to be green. Some businesses had signs boasting how long they had been there like “Established 1996″ or “Serving you since 1991.” To me they were almost all brand new. I still felt nostalgic. I continue to wear a hanten (袢纏) around the house back in the states in the winter that I purchased on this street.

shopping in japan

Exiting the west part of Kofu’s Ginza puts one on Orion Street (オリオン通り). The ancient memory that sticks out the most for me on Orion Street was getting sick one day, running into a business on this street, and using my first Japanese squatter. They were common back then. I haven’t used one yet this go around (which has now passed the 8 month point) in Japan (although I had to use them every day in China last month).

yamanashi ken shopping district

Orion Street hasn’t remained the same either. The above sign notes that Orion Street is lit for the 21st Century so I’m guessing it received a major makeover in 1999.

平和通り 甲府 武田 信玄公祭り

Finally, there was good old Heiwa Doori (平和通り). I couldn’t get a good feel for it as the sidewalks were so packed with people ready for the Takeda Shingen Festival Parade to begin. I did notice that my favorite Mister Donut shop is now a Starbucks. Ugh.

Wind, Forest, Fire, Mountain Dance

japanese dancing girls

After hanging out at the Kofu Castle for a while, I wanted to check out the parts of Kofu I was most familiar with 22 years ago–the shopping streets–before the main part of the Takeda Shingen Festival got under way. I couldn’t get far as a dance performance blocked an entire street through the Kofu shopping district.

信玄公祭り blue wind green forest red fire purple mountain

Takeda Shingen’s motto was “Move as swift as wind, stay as silent as forest, attack as fierce as fire, and have an undefeatable defense like a mountain.” The abbreviated characters for this slogan are read merely as furinkazan (風林火山). At the festival six generals represented each of the four, for a total of 24 generals. The dancers also represented one of the four. Those in blue represented swift wind, green represented forest, red represented fire, and purple represented mountains.

The top picture in today’s entry must have been some mountain dancers. Some forest dancers are below. The best view was from the end of the street, pictured above. The dancers appeared like colorful waves from this vantage point. I should have taken a video for the full effect.

kofu takeda shingen dancing performance

More from the former Kofu Castle site (甲府城跡)

takeda shingen festival kofu castle

The setting for my first picture in this series was the grounds of Maizuru Castle Park. Shingen’s troops gathered here before heading off in their regiments for the “parade.” The atmosphere was very good. The weather was fine, Mt. Fuji loomed in the background, and the samurai were getting drunk before heading off to battle (the pavement of Kofu’s streets).

The Japanese guy above was enjoying the mood as well. I was merely taking an incognito picture of his group when he spotted me and performed this “charge.” It was actually more of a pose than a charge, but I appreciated his willingness to provide a nice action shot for my camera without actually impaling me.

street acts japan

Let’s not forget this was a festival and not a battle reenactment. Therefore, there was plenty of yakisoba, takoyaki, and the like to be had, as well as monkeys doing tricks and other matsuri standards.

rest time at takeda shingen festival shingenkomatsuri

maizurujo yamanashi ken japan

shingenkomatsuri parade pre-edo samurai dress

The guy in the middle of this group, with the tall helmet, is the president of his company and represented one of Takeda Shingen’s generals on horseback later in the evening. I chatted with him for a while earlier and had my picture taken with him. Photos of people like me in regular clothes with those of Japanese in samurai gear don’t look right though.

As each of the 24 regiments left the castle grounds they gave a battle shout like the one you can see in the above video I took. Some groups were more serious than others. Applause at the end seemed a little… wrong.

Kofu Castle (aka Maizuru Castle Park or 甲府城)

manzoin kofu

After all of the festivities at Takeda Jinja I planned to catch a bus down to the station to walk Kofu’s shopping district streets for the first time in ages. However, the bus was so loaded with people thinking the same thing that I opted to walk back down Takeda Dori. The other people at the bus stop went the sardine route.

I purchased a bento on Takeda Dori and ate it at a deserted shrine closer to the bottom of the hill. A bit farther along was an empty temple (pictured above) called Manzoin (満蔵院). Manzoin doesn’t appear to be well cared for at the moment.

The streets of Kofu seem to have changed in the past couple decades as I don’t remember the bridge that goes over the tracks being there. The top photo in yesterday’s blog entry is from the new bridge.

Maizuru Castle Park or 甲府城 japanese

Instead of heading for the shopping area, I was drawn to Maizuru Castle Park (舞鶴城公園), just over the bridge, which is extremely different than it was in the 1980s. I remember the place as a fairly small park with some cherry trees. Now it is a partially reconstructed castle, sometimes called the Kofu Castle.

kofu yamanashi ken japan

Most of the buildings and fortress walls are new, or at least I think they are new. I don’t remember them.

信玄公祭り castle remains kofu japan

Great views of Kofu and Mt. Fuji can be had from the top. These banners are advertising the Shingenko Matsuri (信玄公祭り or Takeda Shingen Festival). The irony is that Kofu’s original castle was built after Takeda Shingen was dead. Shingen died in 1573. The castle was built in 1583 by Tokugawa Ieyasu after he defeated Shingen’s son in battle. Needless to say, Takeda Shingen never flew banners from the top of it. But they looked pretty cool on this evening anyway.





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